Oak and Teak glue, the all wood glue, is a two part epoxy resin made largely from the resins of wood itself. That is why it can dissolve the natural oils of oily hardwoods such as Teak, Cocobolo and Ebony. Epoxy glues made from petrochemicals cannot bond these oily woods properly.
Oak and Teak Epoxy Wood Glue will of course bond all non oily hardwoods and softwoods that lesser epoxies are also capable of gluing. Oak and Teak Epoxy Wood Glue is unaffected by the natural acids common to many woods, which is why it bonds Oak so readily.
It will also (with proper chemical surface preparation) glue a wide variety of metals(instructions here), glass, rubber and also glue plastic materials(instructions here). The cured adhesive is completely waterproof and weatherproof.
Oak and Teak epoxy glue uses Smith and Co’s Dual Synergistic Catalyst™. This is a breakthrough in the control of epoxy resin curing. This new technology not only gives a long working time but also cures twice as fast as older-technology products. Furthermore it won’t smoke off in your mixing pot like other brands.
The cured adhesive leaves an unobtrusive glue line and sands back easily. It is a translucent orange in colour.
Details
Features Of Oak And Teak Epoxy Wood Glue
- Great for gluing particularly resinous woods which are notoriously hard to bond to reliably
- The resin is as flexible as wood once set
- 1 to 1 mix ratio by volume and is forgiving of minor mix disparities. If mixing by weight use 10 parts A to 12 parts B by weight.
- 2-hour pot life at 21°C / 70°F, full cure in 24 hrs
- Workable and curable below freezing (-2 °C / 28°F, 8 days cure)
- Extremely tough
- Usable over a very wide temperature range
How To Use Oak And Teak Epoxy Wood Glue
Preparation
- Measure the Oak and Teak Epoxy wood glue out. It is a 1:1 mix ratio, so very easy to get right. It is also very forgiving of mix ratio errors. 10 parts A to 12 parts B if measured by weight
- Mix the Oak and Teak epoxy thoroughly, all two part adhesives require very thorough mixing to set properly. Our glue mixing sticks may be of interest to you here. Wait around ten minutes until the mixed glue turns from white to amber before using it
Application
- Never clean the surfaces with solvents even if you are gluing very oily wood such as Cocobolo or Teak. The wood absorbs these solvents which interferes with the penetration of the glue. Ultimately this will weaken the resulting joint. Oils contained naturally in the wood do not affect Oak and Teak Epoxy. This is a major advantage over our competitor products, which require the use of solvents that inevitably reduce joint strength
- Apply the Oak and Teak epoxy to both surfaces of the joint. Now allow the wood to soak up as much as it wants to. End grain and porous woods such as the edges of plywood will soak up more. Scarf and Butt joints are especially prone to soaking up glue because of their end grain surfaces.
- Allow the wood to soak up the adhesive, deep penetration gives strong joints. This stops the joint being starved of glue after assembly as the wood soaks the glue up then. Oak and Teak Epoxy has a long working time, you do not have to rush this stage
- Clamp the joint using moderate pressure. The use of too much pressure will starve the joint of glue and weaken the joint
Finishing
- Clean any excess glue from the joint area with paper towels. Avoid the use of solvents if you can as they can penetrate the wood and weaken the joint. If you must use solvents, use our Epoxy Clean Up Solvent sparingly
- Allow the glue to harden before stressing the joint. All Smiths Epoxy resins use their Dual Synergistic Catalyst™. This ensures a full dependable cure at temperatures as low as -2° C (28° F)
- Oak and teak epoxy dries to a translucent pale orange. It is easy to sand and leaves very inconspicuous glue lines once finished. Oak and Teak Epoxy resin will fill gaps in joints.
Cleaning Up
Our Epoxy Cleanup Solvent will dissolve and clean up excess Oak and Teak Epoxy Glue before it has gelled. Once cured, there is no clean-up solvent.
